Crab shell lips, Washington, USA. This holiday photograph was taken during our holiday this summer, shown in a recent blog post, and already printed this month. Usually, I let more time pass until I decide to print a photograph, but I quite like this composition and think it is an original view of a crab shell. Therefore, I really wanted to see it as a print. If you want to suggest a photograph for the November print (and obtain it for free), please contact me. October 2013 print: Crab shell lips
Crab shell lips, Washington, USA. This holiday photograph was taken during our holiday this summer, shown in a recent blog post, and already printed this month. Usually, I let more time pass until I decide to print a photograph, but I quite like this composition and think it is an original view of a crab shell. Therefore, I really wanted to see it as a print. If you want to suggest a photograph for the November print (and obtain it for free), please contact me. 
Tilt-shift moderation: Depth of field
A reader has the following photographic problem:
He would like to increase the depth of field when photographing, for example, spiders. He was wondering if the Mirex tilt-shift adapter may help solve this problem. It should also be noted that he photographs with a full-frame Nikon digital SLR, a 200 mm macro lens and has plenty of other Nikon lenses.
Although this is not necessarily a purchasing problem, I think the problem may be interesting for other readers and my reply is nevertheless an appeal for moderation. Here are some thoughts and opinions in relation to the spider photograph problem:
How to maximize depth of field in macro photographs
If it is the goal to maximize depth of field in a macro photograph, I would recommend to align the camera sensor parallel to the subject that should appear sharp (e.g., parallel to the spider net). Besides this, the depth of field can, for example, be increased by using a lens with a shorter focal length and by photographing with a smaller aperture. However, by doing so, the background of your macro photographs will likely become very irregular and uneven, which I find really annoying and distractive.
Tilt-shift and depth of field
It is correct that tilting the lens can be used to increase the (apparent) depth of field. The "normal" situation for this application is a landscape photograph where everything from the foreground all the way to the background should be rendered sharp. Tilting the lens downward tilts the focal plane so that it becomes (more) parallel to the landscape and therefore the depth of field appears larger. However, as far as I understand, tilting a lens achieves this effect by moving the focal plane, not by increasing the width of the area that appears sharp.
Tilt-shift and macro photography
As far as I understand, many people use tilt movements in macro photography not to maximize depth of field, but rather to be able to photograph with an open aperture, to dissolve the background and to place the (shallow) focal plane as desired. At least this is how I use the tilt-shift adapter for macro photography.
Tilt-shift adapter for full-frame Nikon DSLRs
The tilt-shift adapter that I have described and use is designed for the micro-four thirds mount (it could possibly be used on Sony NEX cameras via an adapter) and Canon EF lenses (Nikon lenses could be mounted via an adapter). In order to allow the tilt and shift movements, the lens must cover a larger image than the size of the camera sensor. A tilt-shift adapter for a Nikon (or another full-frame DSLR) must thus have a mount for medium or large format lenses. The best Nikon tilt-shift solutions (although expensive) are the excellent Nikon tilt-shift lenses. However, these will likely not solve the spider photograph problem, because in my opinion tilting is not necessary in this case.
I am afraid that I do not have a real solution for the spider photograph problem described above. I would definitely not recommend buying another camera in order to use the Mirex tilt-shift adapter, because I do not think that this would solve the problem. If I was challenged to photograph spiders in their nets I would most likely try with a 100 mm macro lens (in full frame terms) because I think this provides the best compromise between working distance, nice rendering of the background and sharpness (and because this is what I have/had and am experienced with). Approaching the spiders will be more difficult than with a 200 mm macro lens, but I would try to overcome this by photographing as early in the morning as possible, when the spiders are likely slower. There are people who photograph lions with wide angle lenses, so with patience and perseverance it should be possible to capture spiders with a 100 mm lens!
He would like to increase the depth of field when photographing, for example, spiders. He was wondering if the Mirex tilt-shift adapter may help solve this problem. It should also be noted that he photographs with a full-frame Nikon digital SLR, a 200 mm macro lens and has plenty of other Nikon lenses.
Although this is not necessarily a purchasing problem, I think the problem may be interesting for other readers and my reply is nevertheless an appeal for moderation. Here are some thoughts and opinions in relation to the spider photograph problem:
How to maximize depth of field in macro photographs
If it is the goal to maximize depth of field in a macro photograph, I would recommend to align the camera sensor parallel to the subject that should appear sharp (e.g., parallel to the spider net). Besides this, the depth of field can, for example, be increased by using a lens with a shorter focal length and by photographing with a smaller aperture. However, by doing so, the background of your macro photographs will likely become very irregular and uneven, which I find really annoying and distractive.
Tilt-shift and depth of field
It is correct that tilting the lens can be used to increase the (apparent) depth of field. The "normal" situation for this application is a landscape photograph where everything from the foreground all the way to the background should be rendered sharp. Tilting the lens downward tilts the focal plane so that it becomes (more) parallel to the landscape and therefore the depth of field appears larger. However, as far as I understand, tilting a lens achieves this effect by moving the focal plane, not by increasing the width of the area that appears sharp.
Tilt-shift and macro photography
As far as I understand, many people use tilt movements in macro photography not to maximize depth of field, but rather to be able to photograph with an open aperture, to dissolve the background and to place the (shallow) focal plane as desired. At least this is how I use the tilt-shift adapter for macro photography.
Tilt-shift adapter for full-frame Nikon DSLRs
The tilt-shift adapter that I have described and use is designed for the micro-four thirds mount (it could possibly be used on Sony NEX cameras via an adapter) and Canon EF lenses (Nikon lenses could be mounted via an adapter). In order to allow the tilt and shift movements, the lens must cover a larger image than the size of the camera sensor. A tilt-shift adapter for a Nikon (or another full-frame DSLR) must thus have a mount for medium or large format lenses. The best Nikon tilt-shift solutions (although expensive) are the excellent Nikon tilt-shift lenses. However, these will likely not solve the spider photograph problem, because in my opinion tilting is not necessary in this case.
I am afraid that I do not have a real solution for the spider photograph problem described above. I would definitely not recommend buying another camera in order to use the Mirex tilt-shift adapter, because I do not think that this would solve the problem. If I was challenged to photograph spiders in their nets I would most likely try with a 100 mm macro lens (in full frame terms) because I think this provides the best compromise between working distance, nice rendering of the background and sharpness (and because this is what I have/had and am experienced with). Approaching the spiders will be more difficult than with a 200 mm macro lens, but I would try to overcome this by photographing as early in the morning as possible, when the spiders are likely slower. There are people who photograph lions with wide angle lenses, so with patience and perseverance it should be possible to capture spiders with a 100 mm lens!
Small digital sensors also lead to a larger depth of field. These hornets were photographed with a tiny point-and-shoot camera.
Nearby: EAWAG 1
The Swiss Federal Institute of Aquatic Science and Technology, abbreviated EAWAG, comprises several locations in Switzerland. Close to Zurich, whithin biking distance of my home, lies the EAWAG station in Dübendorf. The building called Forum Chriesbach is an exemplar for energy efficient design and a photography subjects that I have visited several times already. The blue glass panes that follow the movement of the sun resemble the PWC building, but the color, surrounding and overall architecture of the two buildings are rather different. This nearby composition is part of my man-made reflections gallery.
A nearby composite sunset photograph
Winter sunset in Zurich-Oerlikon, Switzerland.The photograph above is a good example for two important topics that I would like to highlight with my blog. The impressive sunset is an example of a nearby photograph that was taken whithin short walking distance of our home in Zurich Oerlikon. I think this was the most impressive sunset that I have ever witnessed in Zurich. In addition, the photograph is an example for my belief that with little or simple equipment impressive results are possible. The sunset composition was taken with a small point-and-shoot camera (the fantastic Sony DSC T3, which does not exist anymore). Nevertheless, the digital file is huge (over 24 million pixels) because it is a composite of seven individual photographs (about 5 million pixels each) that were taken handheld and stitched together
My monthly (free) print project
Autumnal blueberry field and fir tree, Maine, USA. I have printed this photograph in September as the starting signal for my monthly print project. From now on, I try to print at least one photograph every month. If you want, you can suggest which one and even receive a free print in exchange! I found the photograph above very difficult to print. I have tried many times and even sent it to a commercial print service, but I am quite satisfied with this latest version (of course, it looks different on paper).Photographs are taken to be looked at. As a teenager I was using slide film and always waited for a sale to have a couple of posters made. However, having prints made was often disappointing and the result not quite as I envisioned. In contrast, printing myself gives me almost complete control over the final result. I have started to print scanned slides even before I had a digital camera and now my printing interest has reawakened and strengthened.
In order to print more regularly, I have decided to print at least one photograph per month (in highly limited series). If I manage to stick to this plan, I will create at least 12 prints per year - a good minimal number, I think. I have already created my September print (the autumnal blueberry field shown above) and chosen the photograph to be printed in October. However, if you want, YOU can choose the future monthly prints and receive a copy free of charge!
The rules for obtaining a free print (unmatted, unframed) are very simple. As soon as a new month starts, you are invited to ask for any photograph that you find on Florian's Photos to be printed the next month. If you are the first person to ask for a print in any month, the photograph you have chosen will be printed the next month and you will receive a free print. You may only choose photographs that have not been printed yet (all printed photographs will appear on a separate page) and each month only one photograph can be chosen and received free of charge (I may choose and print additional ones). Also please note that I will only send one free print to a particular person/address ever.
I look forward to my printing endeavor and to fulfilling some of your print request, if you should have one. To ask for a print, please use the contact form on Florian's Photos or the reply section of this blog post.
